As we neared the Vatican it seemed that a million people were also pressing forward en masse to visit the Sistine Chapel. We joined a queue and were accosted by hawkers trying to get us to join their tours and so avoid the wait. But as the queue was moving quickly we stuck with it and eventually made the door where we had to go through security and numerous rooms (called museums) containing statues, massive tapestries, and other 'stuff.' Actually getting to the Sistine Chapel took forever as we were forced past trading tables (reminds you of Jesus' day) and other ante-rooms with opulent ceilings. Eventually we got there, pressing in with the crowds, and being exhorted over a loud speaker system to keep quiet, and refrain from taking photos. Those caught doing the latter were escorted out, or required to delete the images. Why? Because on the way out, there were shops selling books, posters, cards, etc. with images of the Chapel.
The ceiling frescoes were done by Michelangelo Buonarotti over a four year period from 1508.
We were struck by the fact that the nine panels running along the centre of the ceiling cover history from creation to Noah's drunken stupour, and end there.
Michelangelo completed the end wall of the chapel - the final judgment - twenty-three years later (1537-41):
What was particularly striking about these portrayals of creation, fall, sin and judgment was the absence of grace and salvation! The overall impression of the Vatican Museum, including the Sistine, was of a caricature of Christianity, focusing on man and his achievements, and particularly those of the Roman Catholic Church. It was not an edifying visit...
We walked for ages to gain entrance to St Peter's Square - Pope Francis had conducted a special mass, and the police (and Swiss Guards) had blocked most of the entrances until it was over.
Making our way into the Square, (along with thousands of people coming and going) we glimpsed St Peter's, a building constructed in part from the sale of "indulgences" - a practice which so incensed Martin Luther that he posted his 95 Theses on the Wittenberg church door in 1517, and sparked the Reformation.
We retraced our steps to the train, stopping on the way for a light lunch of fruit, and travelled one stop to wait for our #31 bus. Notice the graffiti behind us.
It is hard to express what this visit today has meant to us - I think ultimately it is a feeling of great sadness to see so many thousands of people somehow comforted by their 'pilgrimage' to see the Pope and Vatican City, and outwardly anyway, clinging to a religion of bondage. It also struck me that it was no wonder the reformers wanted the churches and her leaders to have no adornments - that would have been reaction to the incredible opulence we saw today.
We're looking forward to our chef-cooked dinner again, and hopefully some recouped energy for seeing the ancient town ruins tomorrow.



















































